My husband’s grandparents came from Lebanon, bringing with them their centuries-old ways of cooking delicious and healthy meals. The ship that brought them was the Carpathia, of Titanic fame, but not the same voyage; the one after.
Right after we were married, I asked his grandmother to show me some of her recipes. She invited me over and literally
showed me how she created those memorable dishes from beginning to end, since she had
nothing written down. One of these was her way of making yogurt, or laban. She served this as a side dish to her wonderful chicken and rice dish, which contained those lovely pine nuts used in many Middle Eastern recipes. I can picture that lovely white mound of yogurt on top of each plate: rice pilaf with pine nuts, shredded or strips of chicken, and laban on top.
We began with milk.
Siti, as my husband called his grandmother, heated the milk in a saucepan until it was extremely hot, but not yet boiling. Then, she removed it from the heat and let it cool a few minutes. When she put her pinky finger in the milk and counted to ten, she declared it ready. She said, “Now
you try it.” I put my little finger into the hot milk and counted, “One, two, three, OW!” (I have since become accustomed to the hot milk and can count to ten before having to take it out.) It can't be too hot or it will kill the culture, yet it has to be warm enough to ferment.
You have to have some yogurt/laban to make some, so she took a couple of tablespoons of laban from some that she already had and beat it with a spoon for a few moments, to “wake it up.”
To the hot milk, Siti added the 'awakened' laban or starter. She then stirred it thoroughly and poured it into a bean pot or crockery just like the one pictured here. Hers was much larger than mine, but I was delighted to be able to find it.
The bean pot was wrapped tightly in a dish towel and a wool sweater, around and around. She set it aside and said, “Now we leave it alone.” It had to sit from 8 to 12 hours without being disturbed. The sweater helped hold the heat in and keep it at a nearly constant temperature for several hours.
When it was ready, Siti took it out and blessed it with the sign of the cross, cut into the top of the laban. Only then was it ready to refrigerate or eat.
I make laban for my husband the same way that his Siti showed me. Isn’t it a lovely thought that some things, including recipes, can keep a loved one in our hearts and memories?
This photo shows the liquid, or whey, that can form. This is perfectly natural and can be poured off, if desired. The thickness and the tartness depends on how much fat content is in the milk as well as how hot the milk was when the culture was added., and how long it sat. Using whole milk, a cup of cream, or using Half and Half all make a richer yogurt.
Here's Siti's recipe as told to me:
- 6 cups of milk, more or less, depending on how much you want to make
- 2 or 3 Tablespoons of laban starter, or yogurt with active yeast culture, beaten with spoon or whisk
Heat milk, stirring frequently, until very hot, but not boiling. (The heat must kill the enzymes that would keep it from "making".) Remove milk from heat and cool to the point where you can put your little finger in and count to ten before it burns. At that point, add beaten laban and stir thoroughly.
Immediately pour hot mixture into bean pot or crockery with lid. Wrap pot quickly with a dish towel and a thick wool sweater. Do not disturb the pot for 8-12 hours or overnight. The longer, the better. Refrigerate when done.
* I found that an oven heated to 200 degrees and then turned off will help keep the temperature constant.
After making the sign of the cross in the laban--blessing it just like Siti would have wanted, serve or refrigerate, saving a few tablespoons for the next batch.
The laban can be drained through cheesecloth, hung over a bowl for an hour or so, to make a "hard" laban, which, when salted, is a lot like cream cheese. After allowing the liquid to drain, twist the cheesecloth with the laban inside and squeeze as much liquid out as possible. Delicious!!
I found a site for Dr. Oz's version here:
http://www.doctoroz.com/videos/homemade-laban-yogurt
One day as I was researching Middle Eastern foods, I found a cookbook entitled,
Alice's Kitchen: My Grandmother Dalal and Mother Alice's Traditional Lebanese Cooking. I ordered it, and found it to be highly interesting reading about this family's life and the recipes that were handed down. Her family's story is quite similar! While the recipes are not exactly the same, they are close. Plus, this cookbook has recipes that Siti didn't get a chance to show me.
I read the section about how this family made yogurt or laban. It is nearly identical to Siti's method, even to the point of blessing it. In the method, it reads, "Simmer milk until it rises and becomes frothy..." That is exactly what the milk will do. She continues in the directions, "An amazing and ancient alchemy transforms the milk into laban..." So lovely and poetic!
Thank you for your wisdom and love, Siti.
May your memory be eternal.